Day 19 Xi'an

Up breakfast in the hostel and out into another chilly day with fresh snow on the ground.  Although the Shaanxi provincial history museum sounds interesting, our experience both in Changchun and Xi'an suggested that it might be cold inside, even for hardy northerners in their long underwear. 

So we set off on foot for the drum tower which is about 1km from the hotel.  We've passed it many times on the way to the Muslim quarter.    35 yuan each and up the stairs to a porch that went around the whole building with a view West to the Bell tower. Big drums in the tower were at some point in history used for communication.  First at sundown when the city gates closed,  then midnight and again at sunrise when the gates opened.  Daytime communication was done using bells in the Bell tower. 

Inside at that level was an interesting display of drums, many of the type used by taicho drummers.  Lots of photos can be added here.   Then upstairs two more stories to a large room full of various old pieces of furniture,  dark and solid.   Also notable, a desk lion looking a lot like a papier macho sculpture painted in new bright new year colours. There was also a desk rat. 

Brief aside.   New Year decorations are everywhere.  The holiday season continues until February 15, Lantern Festival day.   These include happy cartoon horses, fuzzy toy horses and horse sculptures of every imaginable material outside stores and malls. I wonder what last year's snakes looked like. 

Back to the drum tower.   There was another,  narrower porch with even better views of the city.

At 11am there was a concert downstairs in the drum museum. Five young men and a woman performed  taicho music on drums on a stage.   David has photos and a video. There was also a set of tubular bells,  in this case tuned pieces of wood hanging from a frame at two levels. At the back of the stage there were about 15 brass bells also hanging from a frame.  We saw some bells like these yesterday at the museum. David explained that the discovery of bronze bells  gave ethnomusicologists information about the sound of music at that time. 

Coffee break with some of the amazingly delicious cookies we bought near the Mosque yesterday. 

The Internet descriptions of the Grand Mosque did not really match the one we happened upon yesterday afternoon.  So, we set out a bit more intentionally to find it.   With D's very good sense of direction we did after walking down a series of increasingly narrow but still store lined alleys. 

Photos  here.  As Marguerite said, very peaceful, especially with snow and more men heading to prayer than tourists.  One gateway is said to resemble a Phoenix taking off.  I hope the photo turns out for Nykka. 

Then the two cold adventurers returned to the hostel for a break, late lunch and a rest. Although hiking/biking/running around the 14 km city walls was something we had intended to do,  the cold winter windy weather and icy footing made this less appealing. A quick look at China Daily in Starbucks showed that this snow weather system effectively shut down transportation in several provinces just as people we returning from holiday.  We are scheduled to fly to Taiyuan tomorrow at 1 with a car waiting to take us to Pingyao.  

Day 18 Xi'an

Xi'an south of the city wall  (David)

This morning we are both a bit more relaxed because the trip to Pingyao has been largely sorted out Some details remain, but we are mostly on top of the situation and in better spirits. We organize a laundry and then go downstairs where we both enjoy the French breakfast.

Upon return we hang up the laundry and decide to go to the Smaller Flying Goose Pagoda and the museum attached.

Elizabeth gets us on to Bus #46 and we get pretty close to our destination. After two smiling policemen (!?!) help us refine the search we arrive without incident and are admitted - - just 50rmb for the two of us.

The museum is three stories and dedicated mainly to Xi'an and is role in Chinese dynastic history. Much of the basement is given over to a model of the city when it was China's capital and to artifacts of the Qin , Han and Tang periods However there is a fair amount of material from the Zhou and intervening chaotic times (Warring States. etc.) as well as some ceramics from the Song and Yuan. There is also a display of modem painting incorporating traditional brush work of mountain, water and mist with popular themes such as equality of women and men or rural electrification. The jade collection is also well worth viewing.

After over three hours (during which we saw some great Zhou bronzes including a couple of gu vessels labelled "ritual wine cup" we decided to skip the pagoda itself and retreat to somewhere warm.

[Comment by Liz in November 2016. David's simple paragraph above is a typical DEA understatement.  Although the first to affirm and praise others, he did not do that for himself. David published a book Alcohol and Altered States in Ancestor Veneration Rituals in Zhou Dynasty China and Iron Age Palestine, better known as “Drinking with the Dead" based on his masters thesis in Biblical studies. The picture on the front cover is a gu vessel. One of the main ideas in his book is that the gu vessels were used in a particular important ritual. At the time there was no scholarship in English or translation confirming this.  The simple inscription in that context, showed that David had been right.  That was possibly his most important moment in China.]
 

So back onto a bus and down town for coffee then into the Muslim quarter. Islam has been in China for a long time (the old capital was the terminus for the silk road after all) and there is a strong local community) . We end up back at the same place we had lunch yesterday and the food is a good as we remembered. I'm certain of this because we ordered exactly the same things as yesterday.

Afterwards we tour the market streets north and west of the Tourist Information Office. Elizabeth is quite taken by the range of delicious looking and smelling items, trying to hold my hand while muttering snippets of sentence fragments. "Oh! Deep Fried!" and "coated in sugar!" To be fair, I am excited too , especially when we find a stall that sells the dried fruit I like so much. The bakeries are also pretty spectacular and Elizabeth purchases a few items in case we get snackish later.

We come across a mosque and venture into the grounds. As the big doors close behind us we are delighted to hear that the noise of the street is gone. Here is the music of birds and human voices. The general design is that of a traditional Chinese feudal home with two courtyards of carefully tended trees, lovely rocks placed in appropriate spots, circular arch ways., stone walks and patios, hanging bells and, at the back, a large traditional looking house with a sign identifying it as the Prayer Room. On the roof of this building is a small crescent moon. The successful blend of Chinese and Islamic elements is lovely and demonstrates yet again how different cultures can come together in beauty. We walk back to the hostel. Inside our room we discover a control which, when manipulated enthusiastically, emits warn air. We settle in to bask in our new knowledge. By early evening Elizabeth has settled the issue of Ground transportation to Pingyao and all is well with the world. We decide to slip dinner completely and I doze off while Elizabeth times in the Games in Chinese. It's warm in the room and the future is pleasantly drowsy...

Day 17 - Xi'an

Xi'an walkabout (David) There is a musical clock in the old city! Six a.m. is heralded by a faint and strangely appealing sound which I finally realize is a marvellous time piece. I decide to collect a sample of its  voices in the wee hours. Today we eat breakfast in the hostel before trying to find train tickets to our next destination. The "American" which consists of orange juice, bacon, sausage, potato medallion, two fried eggs and today with butter and jam works well, as does coffee. We hang up our laundry and venture to the train station outside the wall on the north east corner. Snow is coming down and there is a current in the air insisting that winter is not done with us just yet. We are edge\y. I am still not sure how to get around in this city and unconfident of my footing in the slush; or maybe it's the other way around. Elizabeth seems extra cautious of my footing too. For their parts, our fellow pedestrians seem distracted too, which also has me uncomfortable. North of the Drum Tower is a well run market with all sorts of unbeaten things. Here there is substantial light, energy and human purpose which parts the otherwise gray and indifferent sky. Tourists abound, many looking bewildered as they keep turning to closer examine the next wonder. I don't appreciate all the befuddlement as much as I could, but mark the spot for future reference. If I survive the day, I will return to enjoy the spectacle. And the pomegranate juice calls or to me. We reach the north gate and turn right. Going east we can clearly see the magnitude of the fortifications, which are equal to or perhaps even greater than those of the forbidden city. The walls are at least 20 metres thick, high, and crennelated. There is a wide and deep finished moat. Between these formidable features lie a clear killing ground which is narrow enough to concentrate any force with the strength to have made it this far. This was a seat of raw power. Reaching the station we discover that the greatest migration in human history is in full swing and we are unlikely to get the help needed to join in, at least in the immediate future. This discourages is and we retreat somewhat dischordantly. Reentrance to the city is through the north east gate and we make our way to a Starbucks for badly needed sustenance. Two large coffees and a pastry to share brightens the day a bit Things get even better when we text friend E. who assures us that the long distance bus is a viable option. This is tremendous weight off of us, so make our way back south and through the Muslim quarter feeling much better about the world. On the way we warm up on a huge shopping mall with a four - storey long escalator carrying hoardes to the IMax cinema. Impressive! Outside our hostel we see the local temple is open and pause to look inside. It seems to be a happy mix of Buddhist, Taoist, imperial and ancestral elements. Very nice. I could spend much time there. A snack downstairs of sandwich, popcorn and beer before we come upstairs, track down new towels, and have a little rest before undertaking the heat task of eating dinner. Out the front door, hard left and down the street perhaps one hundred steps is a little hope on the wall that yields a warm comfy family restaurant with bilingual menus and a delightful combination of foods. We have two vegetation dishes - a spicy one with hot oil, garlic and eggplant,and a three mushroom bowl that Mars the standard portobello preparation taste like sawdust. Magnificent again. Back to the hostek where we bush teeth carefully and go to bed in anticipation of the adventure tomorrow.

Day 16 Xi'an

(This entry was part of a letter to my step-mother Marguerite, herself an old China hand.)

Today we went to see the Terra Cotta warriors. The highway was closed because of snow and ice that had accumulated over the past 24 hours.  Nothing like the storms in North America, but, given the driving here we were glad to be travelling slowly.   Our little bus held a guide and eleven people picked up from our hostel and two others. 

Did I mention yet that it was cold? Good thing we had our Changchun winter layers which seemed ridiculous last week in the south. 

First  stop was the terra cotta factory where we saw how the figures were made.  This led, of course, to a sales room where replica figures were available, of any size up to100%.  Packaging and postage included, buy a set of soldiers and get a free emperor,  20% off this week only.   Fortunately,  you and Harry  gave us a set many years ago so we were not tempted. There were also beautiful carpets, other ceramic items and more souvenirs. We were given enough time to consider and resist then back to the bus.

First stop at the site,  an hour later,  was the mausoleum of the Emperor Qin. We had 20 minutes so were able to walk briskly to and on the mound where it is located but not to the actual site.   David, as you know, spent about ten summers working on archaeological digs in Israel,  and also wrote a book about ancient pottery  so he knew a lot about what we were seeing. 

By the way,  it was cold.   Blowy and snowy. Walk, walk, walk on slippery marble paths for half an hour. People were sliding as if on a skating rink. There were people with twig brooms effectively clearing snow. 

Bathroom stop then the big show.  The weather must have discouraged many people from coming:no lines or crowds 

You've seen the photos. (Marguerite,  of course you have seen the real thing!) It is still an amazing sight.  Hard to believe that the first artifact was discovered in 1974. (Also hard to believe that the old guy signing copies of the official guidebook is really the farmer on whose land they were found.) Huge building and rows of clay warriors.  Of course,  by this point we had already seen hundreds at the factory,  for sale at outdoor markets along the road,  at the hostel ...you get the idea.   But it is still amazing. David had knowledgeable insights about the process of excavation and, despite the fact that our hands were frozen, said that his fingers were itching to hold a brush or trowel. 

There are three buildings with excavations underway and very good explanations.   At no time did we have to wait to see the displays.   The last stop was a short film in a 360 degree theatre,  the kind where you stand and lean on a bar for  support.  Very  Expo 67, or the Canada pavilion at Disney World. Then another walk back to the bus, and an hour later, back to the hostel. Very glad we had each other to lean against during that chilly ride. 

We changed then had dinner downstairs in the inviting eating, drinking and chatting area. 

Tomorrow's plans will depend a bit on the weather.  Hopefully they will include a meal or two in the Muslim quarter  which is a 15 min walk away. 

Almost forgot.  During one of the many times today when we had to wait outside,  David kept first me,  then many of the group,   warm and entertained by teaching us some simple martial arts moves. A man of many talents. 

Day 15 Yangsho - Guilin - X'ian

After a quick breakfast we were picked up by our driver. Gary came to say goodbye. They had been concerned that end of New Year traffic might make it harder to drive through ttown and get to the airport on time It was not a problem and we made the 70 km trip in good time. It was a grey and foggy day. This made it a bit easier to leave.  [Gary told us later that the following week was cold and rainy, with temperatires below 10 degrees. We were lucky!]

The airport was full of young families: mothers and fathers and one or sometimes two young children along with grandma and grandpa.  The children are very sweet and calm there is none ofhte running, fussing and loud noises we expect with western children. It is increasingly clear that children are well loved with most of their needs catered to, but with very clear behaviour expectations.  They seem very happy. 

The flight to X'ian is fast and quiet. After the small airport and relaxed atmosphere in Guilin, the airport seemed huge. Without checked baggage we were able to quickly leave, find and then board the airport bus. The Hostel World web site contained good instructions and we made it to the hostel without too much delay. 

Day 14 Last day in Yangshuo

Day 14 February  3 Last day in Yangshuo (EE)

After watching the sky brighten behind the mountains, I got up around 7 to go for a walk. Not really early by school day standards. Nor for Chinese tourists.  The bamboo rafts must start up from the town docks as soon as it is light.  There were five fully loaded..  driver and six passengers...on the river as I walked to the right, past the bike rental house to the slightly more main road. 

The road led to a couple of villages. What does that mean? A large patch of land subdivided into many plots,  each about the size of the old NCC  garden plots.  Many rich and green with mustard,  cabbages,  carrots, some peas blooming and many orange and kumquat trees.  There are deep rectangular basins made of concrete that fill up with water during the March to May rainy season.     Other plots are untended and weedy. Alf explained that farmers are making more in a month as landlords (or more) than they ever made farming.   Many of the tall, simple houses are being converted to guest houses or hotels.    (I have some photos to illustrate this.) 

Quite a few people in the fields picking mustard and cabbages and loading the into baskets on their three wheeled bikes,  or baskets which they then carried with a yoke over their shoulders.  

The road turned west and led to the outskirts of Yangshuo.   There are about eight four storey apartment buildings there. There will be more soon, I imagine they will be done by the end of the summer. 

Then left on one of the main roads in to town.   By now it was 8 and the day well underway for Chinese tourists.   Families were pouring out of the many hotels, into cars,  onto rented bikes,  into the many storefront restaurants selling breakfast noodles and just wandering.   I joined them, although not for noodles today.  Instead I stopped at a restaurant by the river and had a "Dutch Breakfast." Juice, coffee, yogurt, scrambled eggs, bacon and toast for 28 yuan. It was already over 20 degrees, warm enough to eat outside. 

Then wandered among the river front, watching people live up for raft rides, try their two or three days rented bikes, pose beside the cormorants who were tied (Not nailed) to their perch and generally have a good time on holiday in warm weather.a

A note about restaurants here.  When you sit down, the server hands you a menu then stands there until you order.  It can be a bit intimidating at first.  In this tourist town they are more used to westerners, so will give you time of you need it.   In many places you also pay right away. The food is almost always delicious. 

The whole walk was about 2.5 hours and I arrived back in time for a second cup of coffee at the hotel. It was a superb start to a very satisfying day. 

Day 13 - Li River Retreat

Day 13 February 2 Li River Retreat Sunday a walkabout day.

The sun is behind the mountains when we awake this morning and the mist has a glow like the translucence of a candle through thin white ceramic. We widen the curtains and sit up on the bed watching the three mountains materialize out of the most while birds chitter away in the warmth of the emerging sun

We breakfast downstairs where the windows are wide open and the wooden wall to the terrace has been opened. We share a fruit plate and order oatmeal in anticipation of a walk this morning. A large mug of coffee each fulfils our needs.

We collect our walking gear and Alf, who leads us northward along the river road through farmland and down to a secret beach. Here we can see how low the river is at this time of year. There are oxbows where the water has meandered on recent seasons and the high water line is a full 1.5 metres above the, ahem, current level.

This is well-ordered land. Fields are carefully tended with a wide range of seasonal crops including mustard greens, some sorts of bok choy, nuts, garlic, onion, carrot, passion fruit, bamboo shoots. sugar came, peppers mild and hot, cabbage, rice, kumquats, oranges and pomelos amongst other things. The food you get here is almost all local, which is great.

Alf tells us that he has a home in Guilin because he and his wife don't want their children in a local school. He says that the new influx of wealth into the area is all tied to rentierism and formerly peasant farmer landlords see no value in education, an attitude they transmit to their children. So his kids go to a big city school, though from the sounds of things it is demanding and hard on the students and their parents. It must be difficult to have to discipline children to do three hours of homework every night when what you really want is to play with them..

As the three of us continue our walk, Alf tells us that his landlord has ambitions to tear down the present hotel building and put up a new one. This will mean a lot of work, expense and inconvenience for the family but would also mean that they can design the new place from scratch and have a new 20 year lease. Such an outcome will bring them right up to retirement age So win-win as they say in these parts. I for one will mourn the passing of our room, which in my mind just might have the best view view in China. Sigh.

Back to the hotel where I shower and wash some clothes. 
We take a few minutes to experiment with the beautiful koto on the second floor. It seems to be tuned A B C# E F# and A again. A perfect pentatonic scale for leads in A. chording is trickier.

we walk into town to reconnoiter the Friend Hotel across from McDonald's on West street. They know how to book train tickets, which is encouraging.

Town is busy. The ferry terminal is bustling with merchants who are too intent on getting ready for the incoming ships to pay attention to us. Elizabeth observes that this makes for a very peaceful stroll , and I agree.

The river walk is a different matter entirely. The place is crowded with vacationers and those who live on us. River cruises, coolie hats, postcards, intriguing pastries or possibly fried tofu, photographs of myself standing with a man in traditional peasant outfit and
cormorants on each end of a long pole, silk scarves, Mao hats with traditional red star and much, much more are there for the discerning spender. We find the Friend Hotel without problem. We find that the staff can't figure out where we need to go so we stop for lunch at a little place called Lucy's where we share a plate of mustard with garlic, spicy chicken , small rice and beverages. Tasty.

We find the park but I am getting tired so Elizabeth navigates is back to the terminal - - which is starting to look a bit like a buffalo jump - - and back to the hotel. We arrive at about 4 pm and take a bit of a break.

Well actually I take a bit of a break. Elizabeth confirms our hostel reservation in Xi'an and gets on to the computer in the lobby to try to figure out why the camera on her tablet is not working.

When I find her in the lobby she has found a solution to the camera problem - a bug related to resolution on scenery shots - and we are ready for dinner

During her hamburger and my robs in black bean sauce Alf tells us that his wife is playing the koto so we turn off the dining room music and listen in while talking quietly amongst ourselves about the joys and complexity of families.

The impromptu concert is over at around 7, so we retire to our room. Elizabeth plans to read ; I may do a bit of writing.