Day 14 February
3 Last day in Yangshuo (EE)
After watching the sky brighten behind
the mountains, I got up around 7 to go for a walk. Not really early by school
day standards. Nor for Chinese tourists. The bamboo rafts must start up
from the town docks as soon as it is light. There were five fully
loaded.. driver and six passengers...on the river as I walked to the
right, past the bike rental house to the slightly more main road.
The road led to a couple of villages.
What does that mean? A large patch of land subdivided into many plots,
each about the size of the old NCC garden plots. Many rich
and green with mustard, cabbages, carrots, some peas blooming and
many orange and kumquat trees. There are deep rectangular basins made of
concrete that fill up with water during the March to May rainy season.
Other plots are untended and weedy. Alf explained that farmers are
making more in a month as landlords (or more) than they ever made farming.
Many of the tall, simple houses are being converted to guest houses or
hotels. (I have some photos to illustrate this.)
Quite a few people in the fields
picking mustard and cabbages and loading the into baskets on their three
wheeled bikes, or baskets which they then carried with a yoke over their
shoulders.
The road turned west and led to the
outskirts of Yangshuo. There are about eight four storey apartment
buildings there. There will be more soon, I imagine they will be done by the
end of the summer.
Then left on one of the main roads in
to town. By now it was 8 and the day well underway for Chinese tourists.
Families were pouring out of the many hotels, into cars, onto
rented bikes, into the many storefront restaurants selling breakfast
noodles and just wandering. I joined them, although not for noodles
today. Instead I stopped at a restaurant by the river and had a
"Dutch Breakfast." Juice, coffee, yogurt, scrambled eggs, bacon and
toast for 28 yuan. It was already over 20 degrees, warm enough to eat
outside.
Then wandered among the river front,
watching people live up for raft rides, try their two or three days rented
bikes, pose beside the cormorants who were tied (Not nailed) to their perch and
generally have a good time on holiday in warm weather.a
A note about restaurants here.
When you sit down, the server hands you a menu then stands there until
you order. It can be a bit intimidating at first. In this tourist
town they are more used to westerners, so will give you time of you need it.
In many places you also pay right away. The food is almost always
delicious.
The whole walk was about 2.5 hours
and I arrived back in time for a second cup of coffee at the hotel. It was a
superb start to a very satisfying day.
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